Resonant Schmizonant

Does a resonant antenna perform better than a non-resonant antenna? The answer is no. As long as both antennas have similar impedances to the transmitter, they will perform equally well.

Let us start by defining impedance. Impedance is the resistive element of an AC circuit. It is described as a complex number with a real part and an imaginary part. A typical impedance may look like this: 50+j50 ohms. The real part is the first number 50 ohms which is the resistive component and what most people use when referring to impedance. The second number +j50 (could be -j50) is the imaginary part. The letter j stands for the square root of a negative 1. This number represents the reactive component of impedance and can be inductive (+j50) or capacitive (-j50). It is important when speaking about antenna impedance that the resistive and reactive components are referenced. One use of the imaginary part is to determine the phase relationship between voltage and current. When the imaginary part is +j0, both are in phase and maximum power is transmitted to the antenna system. Looking at our sample impedance (50+j50 ohms)we can deduce the phase using the following formula:

Because the imaginary part is positive (+) we know that the current lags the voltage.

It is important where the measurement is taken. Taking the measurement at the antenna will give a different impedance than one taken at the feed point. For this discussion, we will use the feed point where the coax from the antenna (antenna system) is hooked up to the radio or the antenna tuner. I want to take a moment here and discuss antenna tuners. Antenna tuners do not “tune” an antenna. All they do is match the antenna system’s impedance to the transceiver’s. Most if not all modern transceivers have a 50+j0 ohm impedance. A better term for an antenna tuner would be transmatch, which is an older name for a tuner.

A resonant antenna will have a purely resistive load which will allow the transceiver to transmit at full power. The reactive portion of impedance will be +j0. In most cases that would be 50+j0 ohms. But wait! 30+j0 ohms is also a resonant antenna and so is 80+j0 ohms. While the latter two antennas are resonant, they may not work very well with a transceiver that requires 50+j0 ohms. An antenna is only resonant on one frequency. Once you move off of that frequency, the antenna is no longer resonant. In fact, non-resonant or random length wire antennas often perform better on multiple bands because they are easier to match. I have made 1,000’s of contacts with non-resonant antennas.

Plotting the impedance on a Smith Chart gives us a VSWR of approximately 2.6:1. This shows about 20% of the total power reflected back. Because of a fairly low VSWR, most transceiver tuners can make an acceptable impedance match. The transmatch would apply a capacitance in the amount of -j50 ohms to the feed point which would cancel out the +j50 of the antenna system changing the impedance to 50+j0 ohms allowing full power to the antenna system.

This is a nontechnical view of antenna impedance based on a conversation I had over a year ago. I was musing about the subject and before I knew it, I had 3 technical books and about half a dozen websites open. There is a lot of cool math for antennas and if I can break it up into usable pieces I may try to post more here. In the meantime I’ll close with a quotation from the ARRL Antenna Book for Radio Communications 24th Edition, page 1.6.

An antenna need not be resonant in order to be an effective radiator, There is in fact nothing magic about having a resonant antenna, provided of course that you can devise some efficient means to feed the antenna…It is important to consider an antenna and its feed line as a system in which all losses should be kept to a minimum.

POTA FunComm with EmComm Practice

This past weekend I spent some time at Florence Marina State Park US-2174. It had been a while since I had a chance to get out and I felt the need for a shakedown cruise. Peak hurricane season is just a couple of weeks away and I wanted to make sure I was ready. While most people connect hurricanes with the summer season, September is acutally the busiest month.

I usually work FT8 as a digital mode when doing a POTA activation but I wanted to test out my other modes making sure my radio system (radio, computer, antenna, etc) was in good working order.

I have been busy the past couple of months working on some projects on the EmComm side of the house and I haven’t had the opportunity to test my portable gear. In particular, I haven’t had the chance to use my Elecraft K3 with digital modes. It is a great radio so I took it and the manual with me. For EmComm, always bring the manual. My antenna was my 28.5′ random wire vertical with a 17′ counterpoise. This is a good antenna for parks as it does not put wires in the trees nor holes in the ground. Being a vetical, it does tend to be more Dx than local. If I need more local operation, I have other antennas I can use. Attached to the antenna is a homemade 9:1 UnUn and a 1:1 current BalUn. Coax was RG-8x fed into the back of the K3. The auto-tuner on the K3 is fairly wide ranging so an external tuner is not needed. This configuration allowed me to work 40-10 meters easily. My spare radio was an Elecraft KX2.

I used mains power at the campsite however, my two Honda generators will power the camper and the radios.

Band conditions were poor, you can’t pick the conditions when responding to a disaster. I booked this campsite a couple of months in advance. When I deployed to Hurricane Katrina, I had similar band conditions. You work with what you got.

I spent some time setting up the radio to run on digital, it took me about 10 minutes to get it sorted. I worked through my apps starting with Winlink. I didn’t update my propagation chart, so I had to download it via radio. I had to hunt around to find a node to connect to. Band conditions again made things difficult. I did manage to connect to a node in TX on 20 meters. I was able to get the report and send an email. Next up was VarAC. It started right up and I sent a few beacons and checked it on PSKReporter.

I had 1 bar on my cell phone and was able to get the map copied before it winked out again. Vara is a great mode and has weak signal propagation very close to JS8Call. From my experince, it is less than 1 S-unit difference.

Later that evening, I checked into one of my EmComm nets using FLdigi. Along with FLdigi, I use FLrig, FLmsg and FLamp. All worked well except that the band condtions prevented 100% copy. The rest of the time I was on FT8. the bands were up and down and the only band producing anything was 20 meters. I only made 161 contacts. On a weekend with normal band conditions I would get between 400-600 contacts. I decided to call it quits late Saturday afternoon and head home. Besides the poor band conditions, it was oppressively hot and humid. There is only so much you can do inside a small camper. Here is the QSO map for the trip.

As you can see, really strange propagation. It was almost like someone built a wall SW to NE. My antenna is normally omni-directional.

It was a good trip and I managed to check all the boxes I needed to check. if you are involved in EmComm or if you live in an area prone to hurricanes, now is the time to check your gear. For those living in a hurricane prone area, make sure you have a spare antenna, tucked away somewhere. Take it out check it and run it with your radio on the bands you think you will be using. Hurricanes can and will take out you antenna farm. Don’t forget to check out the video. Stay safe and stay ready de Scott

K4SWL+ Antenna

On a recent post on QRPER.com, Teri KO4WFP was at a park in Florida that did not allow wires (or anything else) in their trees. Many POTA activators use End Fed Half Wave antennas which usually require one end in a tree. While it doesn’t happen at all parks, not being able to hoist your antenna could bust an activation.

I realized this may happen to me even though Georgia appears to be pretty lenient when it comes to such matters, I decided to switch to a park friendly antenna. I have been a fan of QRPER.com for quite some time and occasionally Thomas will repost something from my humble blog. That being said, it was K4SWL that got me started using a random wire antenna. My basis for my antenna was his speaker wire antenna which was a 28.5’ vertical antenna with a 17’ counterpoise. I used it a few times in that configuration and then started to modify it. I call this antenna my K4SWL+.

Some of the differences are I use a push-up pole to get the antenna in the air and at the base I use a 9:1 UnUn and a 1:1 Choke to keep RF out of the radio. A random wire antenna can feed RF back into the coax.

The wire is 14 ga. coated flex weave from The Wireman. This was left over wire from some other antenna projects. When I started this project I was using 22-24 ga. coated wire from SOTABeams but realizing there was no need to save weight, used the heavier wire. This allows me to dual purpose the antenna both for FunComm and EmComm. The insulator at the top is 3D printed with my call-sign and the base is U-type lugs. I find these are the best as I do not have to take the nut off of the antenna studs and if pulled hard will come loose instead of damaging the UnUn. I connect the antenna to the top of the push-up pole with a small Nite-eze “S-biner” size 1.

The 9:1 UnUn comes from Palomar Engineering. I have already created a blog post about how to build it and it can be found here: http://[https://kk4z.com/2022/05/28/91-unun-qro/]

Part of this blog post was to bring the different components together into one blog post.

The 1:1 Choke can be found here: [https://kk4z.com/2022/08/15/lightweight-choke-balun/]

I made two different types but I found the second works much better.

The project is pretty easy, the only caveat is to pay attention to what wire goes where. Putting it all together, you need a push-up pole, a Flag holder and maybe a trailer hitch extender. I will provide links below. The Flag Pole holder I used was not available so the link I used is a probable substitute. I have a trailer hitch on both my truck and my camper, When I pull into a campsite I have a choice of which hitch to use to keep my antenna clear from the trees. With the antenna up, I wrap the antenna wire around the push-up pole from tip to base, to prevent the wire from sagging near the tip. I attach the UnUn and choke to the mast with Stretch Velcro Straps. With my antenna up I have park employees drive by me all day along. Most of the time we exchange a friendly wave and occasionally one will stop by for a chat. I have had zero issues with this antenna at any of the parks I have visited.

How does it play? It has pretty much been a main antenna for just about all of my POTA activations. You can go back through my blog post and see what equipment I used with the antenna and the accompanying QSOMap. You do need an antenna tuner with this antenna and I typically use an LDG Z-11 Pro which I’ve had for 15+ years. The antenna tunes up from 80 to 6 meters and I have run the power as high as 65 watts. I normally run 10-35 watts depending on band conditions. I have tried it on 160 meters and while I can get a match, I don’t think much RF is leaving the antenna. I’ve made a few contact with it on 160. If you like to work 160 meters during a POTA activation, I suggest a Chameleon EmComm II with a 60’ antenna and a 50’ counterpoise. I run it as an inverted L with the apex about 20’ up my push-up pole and the end sloping down to something not a tree. Last time I tied it to the lantern stand at the campsite. It worked pretty well and I was able to make contacts on 160.

If you’re looking for an antenna that you can set up almost anywhere, with little or no hassles, take a look at this one. Don’t forget to check out the short video below. 73 — Scott

14 ga. Flexweave
Nite-Ize-Size-1-S-Biner
Jackite 31′ Pushup Pole
Flagpole Holder
Hitch Extender
Stretch Velcro Straps